By justaguyinhk in Laos — Aug 10, 2026

Back To Luang Prabang

I fell in love with Laos and am happy to be back in Luang Prabang.

Trees surround the former Royal Place with the Mekong River in the background.

Luang Prabang is one of the best places in the world. The town lies on the banks of the Mekong River and the smaller Nam Khan River. It once housed the Laotian Royal Family, and their home is now a museum. Tree-covered mountains, temples, and villages surround the town.

I was here over 14 years ago and fell in love with it. There have been changes. A high-speed railway line between Kunming, China, and Laos has brought in many tourists. It took 14 hours to drive from Kunming to Luang Prabang through some of the roughest roads I have ever been on. The new train makes it easier, and relaxed visa rules with China mean more people are coming. I worried that the place I fell in love with would change for the worse with overtourism. Despite my worries, I came back and enjoyed it.

Summer is the rainy season, or low season, for crowds. From what I remember, it means it rains hard once, then clears up. The rain makes things less humid and more comfortable afterward. I stayed in the town for 2 weeks; this time, only a few days, and I enjoyed it.

Historic Town

The old town at dusk (top left) and trying to take shelter from the rain (top right). There are some tuk-tuks trying to take you to the nearby waterfalls (bottom left) and the open markets (bottom right).

The town has the same feel, which is good. There are lots of restaurants with a mix of local, Italian, and Chinese food. Local is always the best. It still is cheaper. It is busy on the weekends but slows down during the week as people either return to work in the capital, Vientiane, or go back to China. There is still a feeling of slowing down here. The calmness that was there before remains. I found myself enjoying wandering around during the week much more than on the weekends. The place still feels the same.

Icon Klub

I spent most of my nights at a cocktail bar called the Icon Klub. It is run by Elizabeth (Lisa) Vongsaravanh. I met her when I first came here. She has owned the bar since 2008. It was one of the best places to meet new people and learn new things. A steady flow of people came through: 'old-timers,' those who had lived in the villages around Laos for decades like her. They told stories of how things have changed for the good, more income, and for the bad, more businesses geared to tourists and less to exploring the culture. The negronis were nice, but the conversations were amazing. I am lucky.

Temples

I volunteered in one of the temples on my last trip. It was a chance to understand the novice monks. They are children who agree to live in one of the 34 temples in the town and surrounding area.

Temples take in young boys, housing them for free and providing food. There are not enough schools in the country; thus, many children live in the temples so they can attend schools in town. This means one less mouth to feed, which is better for the family. Being a novice is a highly respected position in Laotian life. The boys live at the temple and follow the rules: they perform chores around the temple, study Buddhist scriptures, and must follow the path, no killing, no stealing, no eating after noon, and no contact with women. They must rise early and perform the alms service, taking food from people on the streets early in the morning. When I was here, it was a beautiful ceremony, but I was warned it has become a social media/tourism spectacle. I was advised to refrain from it. They are kept from their families for long periods, which is hard.

The Mekong & Ban Xieng Maen Village

Boats cruising along the Mekong River (top left). Wandering around with a new friend on the quieter side of the river (top right). The steps down to the Mekong River (bottom left). On the public ferry crossing the river (bottom right).

Ban Xieng Maen is on the 'other side' of the Mekong River. In one conversation at the Icon Klub, I met a researcher who spoke about the environmental damage mining has caused to the river. The village itself is quiet, with farms, chickens running around, and some kids having fun. It is quiet and calm. We walked through some of the lesser-known temples on the other side. It's fun to explore.

The Bridge

The 'old bridge' was built in 1920 by the French when they controlled the area. Crossing the smaller river can be scary as you look down through the floorboards at the river below. The views of the town are amazing. When I went, some kids followed me around and played. They got brave and said 'hi,' then ran away. It's normal and wonderful. The bridge now only handles scooters, as most traffic has been diverted to the more stable bridges farther down the river.

Looking over the Nam Khan River on the quieter side of the town.

I loved getting back. I loved the people, the experience, and the time. I hope to come back and feel some of the same feelings, have the same experiences, and keep seeing how the place has changed along with me.