Back To Luang Prabang

Luang Prabang is one of the best places in the world. The town lies on the banks of the Mekong River and the smaller Nam Khan River. It once held the Laotian Royal Family, whose home has been turned into a museum. Mountains covered with trees, temples, and villages surround the town. 

I was here over 14 years ago and fell in love with it. There have been changes. A high-speed railway line between Kunming, China, and Laos has brought in many tourists. It took 14 hours to drive from Kunming to Luang Prabang through some of the roughest roads I have ever been on. The new train makes it easier, and relaxed visa rules with China mean more people are coming. I worried that the place I fell in love with would change for the worse with overtourism. Despite my worries, I came back and enjoyed it. 

Summer is the rainy season, or low season, for crowds. From what I remember, it means it rains hard once, then clears up. It makes things less humid and more comfortable after the rains. I stayed in the town for 2 weeks; this time, only a few days, and I enjoyed it.

Historic Town

The town has the same feel, which is good. There are lots of restaurants with a mix of food from local to Italian to Chinese. Local is always the best. It still is cheaper. It is busy on the weekends but slows down during the week as people either go back to work in the capital, Vientiane, or back to China. There is still a feeling of slowing down here. The calmness that was there before is still here. I found myself enjoying wandering around during the week much more than on the weekends. The feeling of the place is there.

Icon Klub

I spent most of my nights at a cocktail bar called the Icon Klub. It is run by XX. I met her when I first came here. She has owned the bar since 2008. It was one of the best places to meet new people and learn new things. There was a steady flow of people coming through who were 'old-timers, ' those who had been living in the villages around Laos for decades like her. They told stories of how things have changed for the good - more income- and for the bad - more businesses geared to tourists and less to explore the culture. The negronis were nice, but the conversations were amazing. I am lucky.

Temples

I volunteered in one of the temples on my last trip. It was a chance to understand the novice monks. They are children who agree to live in one of the 34 temples in the town and surrounding area.

Young boys are entrusted to the temples, where they are housed for free and provided with food. There are not enough schools in the country; thus, many children live in the temples so they can attend schools in town. It is one less mouth to feed, making it better for the family. Being a novice is a highly respected position in Laotian life. The boys live at the temple and follow the rules - perform chores around the temple, study Buddhist scriptures and must follow the path: no killing, no stealing, no eating after noon, and no contact with women. They must rise early and perform the alms service, which is taking food from the people on the streets early in the morning. When I was here, it was a beautiful ceremony, but I was warned that it has turned into a social media/tourism spectacle. I was advised to refrain from it. They are kept from their families for long periods, which is hard.

The Mekong & Ban Xieng Maen Village

Ban Xieng Maen is on the 'other side' of the Mekong River. In one of the conversations at the Icon Klub, I met a researcher who spoke about the environmental damage to the river from mining. The village itself is quiet, with farms, chickens running around, and some kids having fun. It is quiet and calm. We walked through some of the lesser-known temples on the other side. It's fun to explore.

The Bridge

The 'old bridge' was built in 1920 by the French when they controlled the area. Crossing the smaller river, it can be scary as you look down through the floorboards and see the river below. The views of the town are amazing. When I went, some kids were following me around and playing. They got brave and said 'hi' to me, then ran away. It's normal and wonderful. The bridge now only handles scooters as most of the traffic has been diverted to the more stable bridges further down the river.

I loved the chance to be back. I loved the people, the experience, and the time. My hope is to come back and feel some of the same feelings, have the same experiences, and continue to see how the place has changed along with me.