Kunming - City of Spring
I came back to Kunming for the weather mostly. It was good to be back but wonder if I will be back as so much as changed. I miss the friction of traveling.
It's the weather, not the city.
It's called the city of eternal spring because of its climate, never too hot and never too cold. Kunming is the capital of Yunnan Province in China. It's home to the major international airport and the main train station. It's a place to stop before heading to other tourist destinations like Dali, Lijiang, or up to where Shangri-La is said to be found.
When I was here last, in 2011, the city was under construction. They were building a subway system. Everything was ripped up and dusty. I was on my way to other places, so I only stayed a few days and never really explored the city, as it was hard to get around. I mostly found people to go with and then figured out how to get back to the hostels where I stayed.
This time was a lot different. The city has a 115-stop mass transit system. Many tall, shiny glass-and-steel buildings stand. More areas are gentrified, for good or ill. The city has completely changed, and yet it hasn't. Hints of the older city remain where it has been reconstructed. The draw is to bring people in for pictures on the mainland equivalent of Instagram, Xiaohongshu (小红书), where influencers can make money. I found the same when travelling around China after the great reopening following the COVID restrictions in 2023. Shenzhen, Guangzhou, Shanghai, and Xiamen are similar, with the same brands, chains, delivery apps, and more.
Parks, green spaces, and temples appear in both the city centre and other areas. Subways, buses, and apps make getting around easier than before. The conveniences of the digital revolution, apps, and infrastructure have made it easier, without the friction of travelling in China before. I do miss the friction, though: getting on a random bus, unsure where it will lead, and the bus driver grunting to tell me when to get off. Things are easier and more accessible; however, the language barrier is there.
Cuihu Park (翠湖) is the 'green lung' of the city, while the Confucius Temple Lingxing Gate allows visitors to explore the temple and gardens. In the city's outer areas is Golden Temple Park, with quiet, calming forests and one of China's largest bronze Buddhas.
One reason to stay near the hostel is the draw of more international travellers looking for a community to get lost with. One reason I once loved to travel was to talk to strangers. On this trip, there weren't as many as there used to be. The hostel was mostly people from China who struggled with English and would only engage in simple conversations, beyond the typical 'hi' and 'where are you from?' It's okay, and I understand times have changed and speaking English isn't as desired as it once was. It can be lonely in a city where people don't speak the same language.
Through Tripadvisor and the local aamap app, I tried to find cafes, bars and restaurants which catered to English speakers and found Salvador's Cafe & Restaurant near Yunnan University. The area is tree-lined, with pedestrian streets and places to wander. I took a tour of the area and found a place to sit and walk.
I have enjoyed my trip back to Kunming. I hope to be back with my fiancé and future husband at some point to see if the things I have experienced are the same, or if it is the isolation of being unable to communicate.